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Hydroponic Gardening

English: Rix Dobbs places a tomato plant in a ...

English: Rix Dobbs places a tomato plant in a nutrient film technique hydroponic tube he built in Durham, North Carolina. The PVC tube accomodates six pots. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Growing plants without soil is often called hydroponics. The name implies that the plants are grown in water containing dissolved nutrients. However, pure water culture is only one of the many methods employed. All of the other methods might simply be grouped as “soilless” culture, which would include sand culture, gravel culture, and culture utilizing other soil substitutes such as sawdust, wood shavings and vermiculite.

The Aztecs amazed the Spanish conquistadors with their floating gardens, and now 500 years later you can impress your friends and neighbors with yours. A floating hydroponic garden is easy to build and can provide a tremendous amount of nutritious vegetables for home use, and best of all, hydroponic systems avoid many pest problems commonly associated with the soil.

Ongoing research with plants such as tomato in floating systems indicate that larger plants may require more above-water rooting volume (more air-space) in order to produce successful yields. To produce more root mass above the water, you may want to test a system that uses two stacked styrofoam floats with holes drilled in the bottom one and all but a six-inch edge around the perimeter cut out of the top one. Fill the empty top float with perlite, vermiculite, or other hydroponic media and plant vegetables or flowers into it the same way you would plant a normal garden. Preliminary results show this method to be promising if starter fertilizer is used on the young plants until their roots reach the fertilized hydroponic solution below the floats.

Tomatoes and peppers are also challenging to grow in floating systems due to the high nutrient requirements for calcium. Blossom-end rot is caused by low calcium in the fruit. Supplemental calcium can be supplied in addition to the recipe above. These calcium products are available at most of the same suppliers that sell the net pots.

NASA researcher checking hydroponic onions wit...

NASA researcher checking hydroponic onions with Bibb lettuce to his left and radishes to the right (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

 

Benefits of Hydroponic Gardening

Critics of hydroponics claim that the method is too expensive and too complex. They also claim that it takes the fun out of gardening and is unaesthetic. The latter claim has some validity. Some community residents in Montreal were put off by the boxes of sterile, almost feathery growing medium. Many stressed that they were gardening for more than the potential vegetable yield, that they enjoyed working with dirt and compost. They wanted to learn about earth and they were quite willing to make do with the Intensified problems of container soil for the chance to work with that medium.

For people concerned with the economics and yields of urban gardening, though, hydroponics makes a great deal of sense. Though soil is cheaper to buy than perlite and vermiculite, the labor costs for the Montreal group in carting 100 cubic yards of earth to the roof were significant. These costs were slashed with the switch to the hydroponic medium which weighed only two percent the weight of dirt. Further, since container soil does leach so readily and does require repeated fertilization, the actual cost of fertilizer for container plants grown in soil is comparable to the cost for hydroponic nutrients. Two more considerations must be mentioned. First, since the hydroponic medium is so much lighter than dirt, a much larger surface area of the roof can be covered with containers without the fear of structural collapse. Also, since hydroponic roots do not need to grow as far In search of nourishment as do the roots of plants grown in soil, planting densities can be more intensive and higher yields can be achieved.

In terms of complexity, hydroponic gardening requires neither sophisticated equipment nor supervision. The technology is simple and easy to construct. The container must be slightly elevated at one end and have drainage holes at the opposite end. One-inch polyvinyl chloride pipes with holes drilled every three inches are laid about an inch under the medium and raised at both ends of the box. Smaller rubber hoses from the nutrient supply are inserted into the pipe at one end and the upward bend in the pipe at the other end stops the flow of the solution. A gravity system for controlling nutrient flow, composed of two five-gallon buckets elevated on boxes and standing two feet above the top of the growing container makes care for the hydroponic vegetables simple. The nutrients can be mixed directly into the water in the buckets and filling the buckets and adding the nutrients takes approximately five minutes of work each day. The hydroponic medium holds water so effectively that rare is further simplified: it is quite possible to skip a feeding for a day or two without causing any damage to the plants.

The experiments conducted in Montreal are important ones: the potential of organic hydroponics for producing both high yields and healthy produce on the rooftops of urban homes and businesses is significant. That the project was conducted in a low-income area and that the community residents have indeed taken over the garden project is also encouraging. Further work remains to be done: we hope to continue researching the methods and techniques of organic hydroponics in our newly completed rooftop greenhouse at the Institute for Local Self-Reliance in Washington, D.C. And we hope that more community groups try their luck with organic hydroponics … in Montreal, some people grew to love it.

via MotherEarthnews.com

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So let’s talk about starting our plants from seed. If you are watching this video and you are probably like me not the most confident when it comes to starting our plants by seed. I would much rather go out and just grab the flat and use plants that are already started. You get them in the greenhouse and let’s get growing. The seeds have always seemed a little bit complicated to me. So I have been doing a little bit of research and been studying up on starting the seeds, and this year here is the plan. You are going to start the seeds in a water saturated soil free mix. Basically, that means we want a moist environment for the seeds and we are going to use something like rockwool or the core products or a hydroten, but we are not going to use dirt. No soil. We are going to wrap it and we are going to take our seeds and we are going to need to wrap it with plastic wrap, which is very inexpensive or we are going to use one with those little plastic tray tops, little dome covers for it, and we are going to use a seed mat and a little seed heating mat. It is just basically like you have under a water bed. You know, water beds where you just have a heater underneath it. It is flat and there is a thermostat and set it. Most of the soil heating mats they are very inexpensive or at $20.25 and they are going to keep it around 70˚ to 75˚. That is our start.

Now, when the first plant starts sprouting, we don’t want to wait for all of them. When the first stalks start coming out, you want to remove the wrap or we want to remove the dome. You know, so we want to turn off the heat. Now, we are ready for lighting and the best thing is grow lights. The best grow lights are inexpensive grow lights because it can be very expensive to buy fancy ones. The shop lights are great. Those little four foot shop lights. It used to be like a 40 watt, but now they are TH or T32s or even LED light. But you want bright lighting and depending on how close you put it down. I mean, you want it pretty close to the seeds. If you have a lot of lights, let’s say it is four bulbs, you might want to turn it off at night for 8 to 10 hours. But if you have the light farther from the light or you don’t have as much light, leave it on 24/7. Light is the key right now for that. Some other things that could really work well is to use quality seeds and we want to steal from aquaponics and use the fish emulsion liquid fertilizers.

You know, with the aquaponic type of set-ups, we have a big tank of fish and that it is the fish’s wastes that fertilize our plants. Well, that works really well, so let’s use it for our seeds. We also want to have a small fan with just a light breeze blowing over our seeds.  It is going to keep the pest away and you know keep the aphids away. It is going to strengthen those plants so that if you are planting them outside or you are going to bring them out of the greenhouse, they are going to be a little bit stronger. One of the things we want to watch out for is once they start doing well, don’t overwater them. Be sure we remove that dome because we don’t want to over heat them because that will cause some problems, and the worst case you know, start over. I mean, most seed packs come with so many seeds that if those suckers die on you, pop a new set and it doesn’t take that long and we will get it going again. And you know for those of us that are a little bit hesitant to do it… Oh, the one thing I have learned is to keep them off window sills, it was like put your seed starts there on the window sill, that is definitely not a great idea because you get probably not enough sun even with South facing, or too intense of sun or not intense enough sun. It is hard to figure it out, so those shop lights work great and they are very inexpensive. You can get a whole kit right at your local Home Depot or Lowes. They are very, very cheap. So let’s set something up like that and good luck with your seeds.

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So let’s talk about starting our plants from seed. If you are watching this video and a little unsure about starting our plants by seed. I would much rather go out and just grab a flat and go with plants that are already started. You get them in the greenhouse and let’s get growing. The seeds have always seemed a little bit complicated to me. So I have been doing a little bit of research and been studying up on starting the seeds, and this year here is the plan. You are going to start the seeds in a water saturated soil free mix. Basically, that means we want a moist environment for the seeds and we are going to use something like rockwool or the core products or a hydro ten, but we are not going to use dirt. No soil. We are going to wrap it and we are going to take our seeds and we are going to need to wrap it with plastic wrap, which is very inexpensive or we are going to use one with those little plastic tray tops, little dome covers for it, and we are going to use a seed mat and a little seed heating mat. It is just basically like you have under a water bed. You know, water beds where you just have a heater underneath it. It is flat and there is a thermostat and set it. Most of the soil heating mats they are very inexpensive or at $20 and they are going to keep it around 70˚ to 75˚. That is our start.

Now, when the first plant starts sprouting, we don’t want to wait for all of them. We just, when the first plants start coming out, you want to remove the wrap or we want to remove the dome. We want to turn off the heat. Now, we are ready for lighting and the best thing is grow lights. The best grow lights are inexpensive grow lights because it can be very expensive to buy fancy grow lights. The shop lights are great. Those little four foot shop lights. It used to be like a 40 watt, but now they are TH or T32s or even LED light. But you want a bright lighting and depending on how close you put it down. I mean, you want it pretty close to the seeds. If you have a lot of lights, let’s say it is four bulbs, you might want to turn it off at night for 8 to 10 hours. But if you are  not putting the plants so close, so you don’t have as much light, leave it on 24/7. Light is the key right now for that. Some other things that could really work well is to use quality seeds and we want to steal from our components and use the fish emulsion liquid fertilizers.

You know, with the aquaponic type of set-ups, we have a big tank of fish and that is the fish’s wastes fertilizing all of our plants. Well, that works really well, so let’s use it for our seeds. We also want to have a small fan with just a light breeze blowing over our seeds.  It is going to keep the pest away and keep the bugs away. It is going to strengthen those suckers so that if you are planting them outside or you are going to bring them out of the greenhouse, they are going to be a little bit stronger. One of the things we want to watch out for is once they start doing well, don’t overwater them. Be sure we remove that dome because we don’t want to cause some problems, and the worst case you know, start over. I mean, most seed packs come with so many seeds that if those suckers die on you, pop a new batch and it doesn’t take that long and we will get it going again. And you know for those of us that are a little bit hesitant to do it… Oh, the one thing I have learned is window sills you know, it was like put your seed flats there on the window seal, that is definitely not a great idea because you get probably not enough sun even with South facing, or too intense of sun or not intense enough sun. It is hard to figure it out, so those shop lights work great and they are very inexpensive. You can get a whole kit right at your local Home Depot or Lowes. They are very, very cheap. So let’s set something up like that and good luck with your seeds.

SEED PACK

SEED PACK (Photo credit: spike55151)

Renee's Garden Seed Contest

Renee’s Garden Seed Contest (Photo credit: Chiot’s Run)

 

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in this weeks Garden and Greenhouse Weekly

  • decorating your porch with plants,
  • caring for gerber daisies,
  • growing flowers from seeds,
  • 4 gardening videos,
  • vegetable varieties for ornamental growers,
  • the right way to prune palmettos,
  • starting tomatoes in the greenhouse,
  • vegetables for an edible yard,
  • slowing the spread of invasive plants,
  • diffuse lighting yields big gains,
  • 12 greenhouse photos,
  • thinning your vegetables,

plus lots more….

365-155, Weekly Theme: Looking In

365-155, Weekly Theme: Looking In (Photo credit: pecooper98362)

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Tomatoes work great in the greenhouse. They get lots of heat throughout the summer and are protected from rain. If you have good ventilation you will avoid blight and other issues. The only downside is that you need to replace the soil in your raised beds if you only grow tomatoes every year.

You might consider planting amaranth to help repel insects. Basil is supposed to improve growth and flavor and repel mosquitoes and flies. Garlic is known to repel red spider mites.  Stay away from cabbage, corn, dill, eggplant, peppers, potatoes, fennel and walnuts since they don’t do well with or harm tomatoes.

State fruit - Tomato

State fruit – Tomato (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

 

Tomato Grafting for Your Greenhouse | High Mowing Organic Seeds

http://www.highmowingseeds.com3/27/13

I have been growing tomatoes in the greenhouse for 12 years now. I switched to grafted plants after In a week or so, I start to investigate the graft and carefully remove the clip and look for signs of healing. The stems should

Tomatoes and Peppers in a Mini Greenhouse | New England

http://nepermhome.wordpress.com2/3/13

Tomatoes and Peppers in a Mini Greenhouse. Posted on February 3, 2013 by nepermhome. I know that it is probably earlier than necessary to start planting, but I have always had good luck starting my tomatoes and peppers this early.

Greenhouse Tomatoes & Foliar Feeding

http://www.allotment.org.uk6/5/12

In the Greenhouse. Tomatoes planted in the greenhouse. The greenhouse is now fully set up for the summer. On the easterly side I’ve a row of a dozen tomatoes in double grow bags with the canes in place for them as they grow on. I’d left the tomatoes a little long in 3″ pots and they’re I was chatting to a neighbour who told me of a friend that decided to start this grow your own lark with some tomatoes. He got some plants and set them in growbags, fed them and

 

English: Tomatoes in a greenhouse, near Nea Mi...

English: Tomatoes in a greenhouse, near Nea Mirtos, Lasithi prefecture. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

 

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